Dambulla
Then…
The cave monastery of Dambulla has been in operation for
over 2000 years and is sited on a gigantic granite
outcrop that towers more than 160 m above the surrounding
countryside. The rock is more than 1.5 km around its
base and the summit is at 550 m, giving you a panoramic
view of the plain and distant mountains. This was probably
the place where King Vattagamani hid after fleeing from
Tamil invaders. When he returned to the throne at Anuradhapura
in 89 BC, he had a magnificent rock temple built at
Dambulla.
…and
now
Dambulla is the most impressive cave temple
complex in Sri Lanka, with
five caves under a vast overhanging rock, carved with
a drip line to keep the interiors dry. Monastic buildings
have been built in front of the caves, complete with
cloisters, and these in turn overlook a courtyard containing
a Bo tree, which is used for ceremonial purposes. The
caves have a mixture of religious and secular painting
and sculpture, with ornate and intricate ceiling frescoes
showing scenes from the Buddha's life and Sinhalese
history. Although the monastery was founded in the 1st
Century BC, the site has been repaired and repainted
several times during the 11th, 12th and 18th Centuries.
Dambulla is the most impressive cave
temple complex in Sri Lanka and for this reason alone should
not be missed, particularly if you are interested in
the cultural, religious and artistic heritage of Sri
Lanka.
All five caves are open for viewing:
Cave I (Devaraja Viharaya)
Cave II (Maharaja Viharaya)
Cave III (Maha Alut Viharaya)
Cave IV (Pascima Viharaya)
Cave V (Devana Alut Viharaya)
Most of the principal sites of interest
can be visited in a 1.5-hour tour from Dambulla.
Cave I (Devaraja Viharaya) |
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 The
Devaraja Viharaya, or Temple of the Lord of the Gods,
contains the huge reclining Parinirvana Buddha, which
is 14 m long and carved out of solid rock. The frescoes
behind Ananda, the Buddha's favourite pupil, are said
to be the oldest in the site. Devaraja refers to the
Hindu god Vishnu, said to have used his divine powers
to create the caves.
Cave II (Maharaja Viharaya) |
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The second and largest cave is attributed to King Vattagamani
Abhaya, although it has been altered several times over
the centuries before being completely restored in the
18th Century. In addition to 16 standing and 40 seated
statues of the Buddha are the gods Saman and Vishnu,
which pilgrims often decorate with garlands, and also
statues of King Vattagamani and King Nissanka Malla,
responsible in the 12th Century of the gilding of 50
statues. The cave is accordingly called the Maharaja
Viharaya, or Temple of the Great Kings.
A dagoba with eight seated Buddhas has been gouged out
of the rock, while a spring which drips it water out
of a crack in the ceiling is said to have healing powers.
Valuable tempera paintings on the cave ceiling dating
from the 18th Century depict scenes from the Buddha's
life, from the dream of Mahamaya to temptation by the
demon Mara. Further pictures relate important scenes
from the country's history.
Cave III (Maha Alut Viharaya) |
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 The
third cave, the Maha Alut Viharaya (Great New Temple),
acquired ceiling and wall paintings in the typical Kandyan
style during the reign of King Kirti Sri Rajasinha (1747-82),
the famous Buddhist revivalist. In addition to the 50
Buddha statues, including an exquisitely carved reclining Buddha,
there is also a statue of the king,
and more paintings of thousands of the seated Buddha
on the ceiling.
Cave IV (Pascima Viharaya) |
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The smallest cave, the Pascima Viharaya
or Western Temple, had a fifth cave constructed later
to its west and contains about 10 images. Unfortunately
the stupa was damaged by thieves who came in search
of Queen Somawathie's jewels.
Cave V (Devana Alut Viharaya) |
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The newest cave, the Devana
Alut Viharaya, was once used as a storeroom. The images
here are built of brick and plaster and are consequently
of inferior quality. In addition to the Buddha figures,
images also include the Hindu deities Vishnu, Kataragama
and Bandara (a local god).
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